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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.